How to Drive a Car & Ride a Motorcycle

   

How to Drive a Car With an Automatic Transmission

Edited by Teresa, Sondra C, BR, Knowledge Junkie and 42 others

This article will explain how to drive a car with an automatic transmission. Many people start out driving automatics because they are generally simpler to operate than manual transmissions and some find them more comfortable for long trips.

Before operating any motor vehicle, please make sure you have a valid driver's license and understand all local traffic laws.

  Steps

1. 
   1
   Unlock the vehicle and climb into the driver's seat.
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2. 
   2
   Adjust the mirrors so you can see behind the vehicle clearly, and identify the car's blind spots before you start driving.
3. 
   3
   Identify the controls. We are going to find the accelerator and brake pedals, the steering wheel, the gear selector lever, and the controls for the lights.
   • The brake and accelerator pedals are located on the floor. The brake pedal is usually larger and on the left, the accelerator is usually smaller and on the right.
   • The steering wheel is the large wheel in the center of the driver's console. Turn it to the left and right to turn the front wheels of the vehicle.
   • Located on the steering column - usually on the left side - is a small lever that has a rest position in the middle and two locking positions, up or down. This is the turn signal lever. Look around the front console for switch or knob that will control the headlights; it often on the left side of the steering wheel mounted into the console or a control knob on one of the levers on the steering column.
   • The gear selector level will usually be in one of two places: it is either mounted to the right side of the steering column or in-between the driver's and passenger's seats on the floor. It will have a display showing gear indicators, usually marked with letters like "P", "D", "N", and "R" and a few numbers. On steering-column shifting levers, this display is usually located on the instrument panel, underneath the speedometer. In models with the shifting lever on the floor, the display is usually alongside the shifting lever track.
4. 
   4
   Place your right foot on the brake pedal and push it down, insert the key and start the vehicle.
5. 
   5
   To move forward, keep your foot on the brake pedal and shift the gear lever into "Drive." This is often marked with a "D." If you need to back up before starting your journey, shift the lever into the "Reverse" position usually marked with an R.
   • For shift levers mounted on the steering column, pull the lever towards you and move it up and down to select a gear.
   • For shift levers mounted on the floor, there is usually a button to unlock the lever. It can then be moved along its track into position.
   • Make sure you are looking in the direction your vehicle is about to move.
6. 
   6
   Release the parking brake. This is usually on the floor as a lever between the two front seats or as a pedal on the far left side with a release lever above it.
7. 
   7
   Slowly release pressure on the brake pedal. The car will start to move slowly.
8. 
   8
   Take your right foot off the brake and press the gas pedal slowly. The car will move faster.
9. 
   9
   Turn the steering wheel to turn the car. Turn it to the left to turn the wheels left and to the right to turn the wheels right. Note that if you are in reverse, the car will move the opposite direction you turn the wheel.
10. 
    10
    If you are in reverse and need to continue moving forward, completely stop the vehicle and move the shifter from "R" into "D", just as before.
11. 
    11
    To stop, take your right foot off the accelerator pedal and move to the brake, applying consistent pressure. When you wish to start again, switch back and move your foot to the accelerator.
12. 
    12
    Congratulations! You're driving. Please be sure to follow all traffic laws in your area and wear your seat belt at all times.
13. 
    13
    When you have reached your destination, bring the vehicle to a complete stop by applying pressure to the brake pedal and place the shift lever back into the "P" position. Turn off the engine, and don't forget to turn off the headlights and apply the parking brake.
    
    

Know another method for How to Drive a Car With an Automatic Transmission? Add it here...

1.

Edit Tips

• To move the car at low speeds, simply remove your foot from the brake when moving off. Use the brake to maintain a constant speed and the throttle to increase speed.
• Many automatics have gear selections for 1st, 2nd, and even 3rd gear along with the automatic "D" setting. These are for regulating the gear yourself in adverse conditions. To shift down or up between these gears, you can move the shift lever as the car is in motion. Lower gears offer more power but slower speeds. Be VERY careful not to shift into Reverse while the car is moving forward, or vice versa.
• Be gentle with the vehicle's controls. Do not apply too much pressure too quickly on either the brake or the accelerator pedal and handle the steering gently. You will get better gas mileage and your passengers will thank you for the smoother ride.
• Shift into "N" (neutral) when stationary for long periods so the engine doesn't work against the torque converter and waste power.

Edit Warnings

• Do NOT use one foot for the brake pedal and the other for the accelerator pedal. Use your right foot for both pedals and leave your left foot on the floor. This will help your brakes to last long and and will make your brake lights effective at keeping you safe. If you drive with one foot on the accelerator and one on the brake, people behind you will not know when you are stopping and you may cause an accident.
• Drive defensively and pay attention to your surroundings when you are operating any motor vehicle.
• Follow all local traffic laws and always drive with a valid license.
• Never operate a vehicle while under the influence of alcohol.

 

How to Push Start a Motorcycle

Edited by Chris Hadley, Jack Herrick, Glutted, PriyamvadaS and 6 others

Push-starting a motorcycle is a useful trick when you have a dead battery or the engine won't turn over. It starts the engine quickly without using the battery by using the momentum of the motorcycle.

  Steps

1. 
   1
   First, make sure that your bike isn't starting just because you are out of gas. If you're out of gas, this will not work.
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2. 
   2
   Make sure the key is in the on position and if your bike has a petcock {fuel valve), make sure it is on as well.
3. 
   3
   Put the bike in 1st or 2nd gear depending on which works best for your bike.
4. 
   4
   Hold the clutch in and begin pushing, preferably downhill, but it will work elsewhere as well.
5. 
   5
   Once you've gathered enough speed, apply a minimal amount of throttle (not too much or the bike will get away from you) and hop on the bike just as you release the clutch.
6. 
   6
   Rev the engine a bit so your bike doesn't choke down or go dead.
7. 
   7
   Ride away.
   
   

1

  Tips

• Downhills work best and require the least amount of work for you. Bikes are heavy!
• The faster you go and the higher your gear, the easier it will be for you to start the bike.
• If this doesn't work, and you don't have extensive motorcycle maintenance knowledge, get it towed to a shop to find out what's wrong.

  Warnings

• Don't try this on crowded streets.
• Always wear a helmet.

  Things You'll Need

• A motorcycle
• A helmet
• A hill (optional)

How to Change the Oil and Oil Filter on a Motorcycle

Edited by Tom Viren, Ben Rubenstein, Bob Palin, Jack Herrick and 10 others

Want to save some money and learn about your beloved machine at the same time? Try changing your own oil. It's cheap, fun, and doesn't require many tools!

  Steps

1. 
   1
   Set up your spot. This is one of the most important steps. You don't want to be running around looking for tools, containers and rags while oil is flowing out of your bike and your hands are too slick to turn a doorknob! Check the "Things You'll Need" section to get everything ready.
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2. 
   2
   Put your bike on the side stand, center-stand or rear-stand if you have one. Put your drain pan approximately under the bolt. Try to think ahead of where the oil's going to shoot out, and watch it as it drains. You'll most likely have to adjust the placement of the drain pan as the old oil slows down. Use the proper tool to remove the bolt. You don't want to strip it! If it drops in the pan, just pick it up quickly and don't burn yourself if it's hot!
3. 
   3
   Allow the used/dirty oil to finish draining while you take off the filter. Carefully unscrew the filter with a filter wrench or, in a pinch, wrap a leather (or rubber) belt around it like a dog choker to get it off. Be careful not to dent or damage the filter, as that could inadvertently allow some of the contaminants in the filter to go back into the engine. There may be some oil left in there that may splash out, so make sure you've got something under there to catch it. If it is on there really tight, you can punch a screwdriver through its side with a hammer and use that to get it loose.
4. 
   4
   Install a fresh drain plug crush washer. It may cost as much as a dollar, but is cheap insurance. Be sure to remove the old crush washer. The New Washer will help save the threads in your oil pan as it will take less torque to wrench down on the oil drain plug.If the drain plug washer is a copper washer it must be annealed to make it soft by heating to cherry red and cooling in water. All copper washers must be annealed before reinstalling or it will not compress. This includes new ones as copper hardens with age.
5. 
   5
   Put the drain bolt back in. Make sure it's clean of dirt and grime before putting it back. Remember that it's usually going into cast aluminum, so don't over-tighten it! Consult your manual or your local shop for torque specs for your bike. Remember when using a torque wrench that Nm is not equal to Ft-Lbs. If you don't torque in the bolt to spec, just install it snug but do not over-tighten it!
6. 
   6
   Prep the filter by filling it about a quarter full of fresh oil. "Swish" it around slowly to try and get all the filter material down in there wet with oil. Then, and this is very important, prep the rubber seal with a dab of oil on your finger. Just get the whole seal "wet". This will ensure that it makes good contact with the engine, and make it much easier to get it off during the next oil change.
7. 
   7
   Clear the filter area on the engine of grime and wipe a finger of fresh oil around the area just to get good clean contact. Carefully screw on the new filter. Don't force it! It should go quite easily. Once it takes more than about zero effort to turn it, it only needs about 3/4 of a turn left. You really don't want to over-tighten an oil filter. And you shouldn't need more than a clean hand to tighten it. Don't use a tool, unless it is attached to a torque wrench and you are tightening it to factory specs!
8. 
   8
   If you haven't already, move the dirty oil away from the area so you don't spill it! Look in your manual for oil capacity and use the funnel to add about half a quart under full capacity into the fill hole. Stop and check the level. Add or drain oil as necessary to be at about the bottom third between Add and Full. You don't want to overfill the oil! It adds undue pressure on the seals in your engine and can lessen its life. Remember that on motorcycles you have to have it straight up and down, not on the side stand, to check the level.
9. 
   9
   Clean it up, double check you've returned all the caps and bolts, and you're good to go! Most auto places that sell you the oil will take it back if you pour it back into the original containers. It's a messy job, but don't pour it on the ground. It doesn't go away, it's really bad for the environment, and quite likely it is illegal.
10. 
    10
    Lastly, make double sure to check the level again as well as the filter, drain bolt, and fill cap tightness after your first ride!
11. 
    11
    Congratulations! Job well done.
    
    

  Tips

• Remember, hot oil flows much better, so go for a ten minute ride before you pull the drain plug. The oil will come out hot and fast when it goes so be careful! This will help "wash" the inside of your engine with oil and let it flow out nicely.
• Clean the oil drain plug area and the drain plug itself thoroughly. That will make it easy to spot a leak after you refill with fresh oil. It will also keep you from introducing dirt from the oil-pan to the inside of the engine. If you do see a leak after re-filling, you may have not tightened the drain plug enough, or you may have over-tightened it. What's more, leaving oil on that area will attract loads of dirt and make a real mess of the area.
• Oil disposal is always a pain. Put it in an old (but clean) bleach or laundry detergent bottle, cause they're sturdy and have a good screw on top. Most town dumps will take oil if you're a resident, and sometimes only on a certain day. Don't dump it on the ground or down the drain.
• You don't want dirt and grime from your tools and your shop getting in there, so clean your tools before (and after), and keep a clean work area! Small particles of sand in your oil can destroy your engine!
• Be sure not to over-tighten your oil drain plug. The oil pan is usually aluminum and no match for the steel threads of the drain plug. A stripped oil pan can be a big pain. The drain plug should be tightened to the tightness specified in your owners manual and no more.
• If you ride a sport bike, odds are that your oil filter will be surrounded by your exhaust headers. Since burning oil stinks, try this to keep the oil off of the hot exhaust pipes: get some aluminum foil and wrap it over the top of the headers just below the filter connection!

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  Warnings

• Overfilling your engine increases oil pressure, putting strain on seals. Think about this. Racers usually run their cars/bikes with even less oil than the manufacturer recommends as the bare minimum in oil to keep weight down. And think about how hard they run their engines. Stay on the not chock-full side and filling 1/3 of the way above "add" (or the lower marker). Just check it often, as you should anyway!
• Hot oil is hot! Be careful as you can burn yourself.
• Never smoke or use a lighter while changing oil, charging batteries, or working with any part of the fuel system (tank, lines, carbs, injectors, etc).
• Oil isn't all that flammable, but fuel that may have contaminated your oil IS. Oil will burn, mind you, but it takes a source of heat far greater than that of a simple cigarette or a lighter. However, you may have had a carburetor's float get stuck and not even realize it, and now you might have a great deal of fuel mixed in with the oil in your crankcase. If a float sticks, the excess fuel should pour out of the overflow. Sometimes, if the line is pinched, plugged, or stopped up, over one night the contents of the entire fuel tank can find their way into both the airbox and the crank case. It may stick for only a short time resulting in only a small amount of fuel loss, but any fuel in the crankcase is really, really bad. If that has happened, changing your oil in-doors could pose an explosion/fire hazard. An easy way to know what you're dealing with up-front is to pull your oil fill cap, stick your nose up to the hole, and take a whiff. If you smell gas, move the show outdoors to a well ventilated area. Also, you will want to find the source of the errant fuel ASAP. If you have a float sticking, it will cause all sorts of problems. Fuel will also re-contaminate your fresh oil and that can cause permanent damage to your engine. Diluted oil is bad oil!

  Things You'll Need

• Oil Filter
• Oil
• Drain Plug Washer
• Open end wrench (or socket and ratchet)
• Drain pan
• Tool to remove the filter (an old leather belt will do)
• Rags for cleanup
• Funnel
• Aluminum foil
• Torque wrench (recommended)
• Owner's or service manual

 

How to Ride a Motorcycle

Method 1 of 3: Safety And Test Preparation

1. 
   1
   Learn the proper safety measures for riding. Riding can be very dangerous. Knowing the basic skills of safe riding is essential to keeping you and those around you alive. Some basic safety precautions include:
   • Wearing the proper safety gear.
   • Maintaining a safe distance from other vehicles.
   • Keeping within the posted speed limits and following the flow of traffic.
   • Regularly checking your motorcycle for possible safety issues. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation has a checklist for this purpose called T-CLOCS. T-CLOCS stands for: T - Tires, wheels. C - Controls (levers and pedal, cables, hoses, throttle). L - Lights (battery, headlamp, brake lamp, turn signals, mirrors, etc.). O - Oil (fluid levels and leaks). C - Chassis (frame, suspension, chain or belt, fasteners). S - Stands (center stand and sidestand)
     
   
   
2. 
   2
   Read your motorcycle’s manual. Familiarize yourself with your motorcycle’s components and how it will perform on streets and highways. Typical motorcycle components and controls include:
   • Right side handlebar accelerator control
   • Right side handlebar brake control
   • Left side handlebar clutch
   • Foot-pedal gear shifter
   • Speed and fuel gages
3. 
   3
   Read the DMV motorcycle driver’s manual. For United States residents, this can be obtained at your local Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) office or through its official website. Familiarize yourself with all the laws, requirements, and motorcycle rider’s rights specific to the state or jurisdiction you reside. This may include the following:
   • Special insurance conditions for motorcyclists.
   • Rules pertaining to passengers.
   • Speed limits and restrictions.
   • Whether or not your state allows motorcycles to use express lanes.
   • Restrictions for noise, including requirements for certain mufflers and baffles.
4. 
   4
   Take the test. Most countries and jurisdictions require that you obtain a motorcycle permit. Once you’ve done all the required reading you should be ready to attempt the written test. If successful, you will receive a temporary motorcycle license or learner's permit. You are now ready to learn how to ride. 

Method 2 of 3: Learning How Your Bike Works

1. 
   1
   Find an experienced rider. Before you get too excited and turn your bike on, make sure that you have someone knowledgeable present. Hiring a professional or attending training class can be helpful at this point.
2. 
   2
   Get on your bike. The first time throwing a leg over your bike may feel awkward. Try following these steps:
   • Balance yourself by leaning carefully against the tank and placing both hands on the handgrips.
   • If starting from the left side, place all of your weight onto your left leg. Never mount from the opposite side of the kickstand. If your bike has a center stand, mount from whichever side is most comfortable.
   • Lift your right leg high up and over the bike. Lifting your leg high will ensure your leg does not get caught before reaching the other side of the bike. Never mount from behind.^[3]
3. 
   3
   Get comfortable with your bike. Now that you have mounted your bike, take the time to familiarize yourself with the weight and feel of it. Make any needed mirror adjustments and get acquainted with your individual bike’s foot pegs, turn signals, horn, and lights.
4. 
   4
   Learn the controls. Whether you decide on a professional or an experienced friend, they should be able to walk you through these basic skills: how to start, accelerate, decelerate, shift, brake, stop, park, and start again. Successfully learning these skills requires that you know how the controls of your bike function.
5. 
   5
   Know your Throttles and Brakes: Your right hand controls both the throttle (acceleration) and front brake. Your right foot controls the rear brake.
   • Twisting the right hand grip towards your body will apply throttle (gas/acceleration). Be gentle with the throttle. An excessive rev can be dangerous and lead to an unintentional wheelie.
   • Pulling the right hand lever will apply the front brakes. Like the throttle, gentleness is key. The two-fingered technique will work for most bikes while some will require the use of your entire hand.
   • The rear brake is mostly useful for situations with reduced traction or when operating at a low speed. Bikes that carry more weight over the rear wheel, such as cruisers, may find breaking with the rear more effective.^[4]
6. 
   6
   Know your Clutch: The lever on the left hand grip is the clutch. Like the right hand lever, the two-fingered technique will work for some bikes while others will need the entire hand.
   • The clutch controls the connection between the engine and transmission. Squeezing the clutch lever disengages the clutch and disconnects the engine from the transmission. Releasing will engage the clutch and connect them. When disengaging the clutch you effectively place the bike in neutral regardless of whether it is in gear or not. Engaging the clutch will place the bike into whichever gear is currently selected.
   • Just as you would with the brake and throttle the clutch lever should be squeezed and released as smoothly as possible.^[5]
7. 
   7
   Know your Shifting Lever: Shifting gears on a motorcycle is done by moving the Shifting Lever up or down with the left foot.
   • Most motorcycles will follow the “1 down, 5 up” shift pattern: 6th gear (if applicable), 5th gear, 4th gear, 3rd gear, 2nd gear, NEUTRAL, 1st gear.
   • It will take time to get used to so practice finding neutral with your left foot. Look for the green "N" to show on the gauges as you move the Lever up or down.
   • You must shift gears in this order: Disengage clutch (using left hand). Shift gears (using left foot). Engage clutch.
   • Gradually applying the throttle while engaging the clutch will make shifting gears smoother.^[6]
8. 
   8
   Start your engine: Modern bikes no longer need a "kick start" to get the engine running and now start electrically. Follow these steps to turn your motorcycle on.
   • First, flip the kill switch to the "on" position (your kill switch will likely be a red rocker switch near the right handgrip).
   • Next, turn your key to the "ignition" position. At this point most bikes will perform a self-check.
   • Make sure that the bike is in neutral. The green "N" should be lit on your gauges.
   • Disengage the clutch. Some bikes will require this to start the engine.
   • Push the start button (this will likely be marked with a logo of a circular arrow surrounding a lightning bolt and be located to the bottom of the kill switch). If everything is in working order, your engine should begin to run. Some bikes may need a gentle application of throttle to get the engine going.
   • Be patient as the engine warms up. Once the engine turns over, it may take 45 seconds to several minutes until your bike is ready to go. Unlike a car, ensuring the engine of your bike is properly warmed up is a crucial step for safe riding.^[7]
9. 
   9
   Do not forget to retract your kickstand with your foot. Forgetting to do so can be dangerous. Centerstands require a forward rocking motion to retract. Once your kickstand or centerstand is up you’ll find yourself on your toes and ready to ride.

Method 3 of 3: Putting It All Into Practice

1. 
   1
   Find a safe, isolated area to practice in. Just as before, make sure to have an experienced rider nearby to supervise you.
2. 
   2
   Start slowly, practicing the basics of accelerating and braking while in first gear. Remember, to do this you must:
   • Squeeze the clutch lever to disengage the clutch.
   • Move the shifter down to first gear using your foot.
   • Release the clutch slowly.
   • Twist the throttle to keep the engine from stalling.
   • You will feel your bike begin to move forward. Put both feet up onto the foot pegs once you’ve gained momentum. Congratulations! You are now riding a motorcycle! Before you ride off into the sunset you may want to test the brakes first.
3. 
   3
   Maneuver your bike using a method known as countersteering.
   • While moving at a speed roughly above 10 mph, push the handgrip on the side you wish to turn towards. If you wish to turn right, lean slightly to the right while pushing the right handgrip away from your body.
4. 
   4
   Practice shifting between gears. Once you’ve built confidence at lower speeds, you may wish to practice shifting into the higher gears. As with everything else, the idea is to be as smooth as possible, whether it is your clutch, throttle or brake. Achieving this fluidity will take practice and muscle memory.
5. 
   5
   Work your way gradually towards streets and highways. Recall all of the laws and proper practices for safe riding you learned in order to receive your permit.
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  Tips

• "Where you look is where you go." If you look down to the ground, a common problem with learners, then you WILL dump the bike. If there's an obstruction in your path, do not lock your sights onto it. You are more likely to hit it. Look where you want to go. It's important to glance all around, to be aware of what's in every direction, but it's a dangerous habit to lock sights in a direction you don't want to go.

  Warnings

• Remember that motorcycle riders are generally at higher risk for injury or death to the exposed nature of the vehicle. Prepare yourself with as much information on safety as possible.
• Riding instruction should only be done under supervision of an experienced adult.

  Sources and Citations

1. ↑ http://www.msf-usa.org/downloads/T-CLOCSInspectionChecklist.pdf
2. ↑ http://www.dmv.org/how-to-guides/riding-motorcycle.php
3. ↑ http://motorcycles.about.com/od/howtostartridin1/ss/How_To_Ride_3.htm
4. ↑ http://motorcycles.about.com/od/howtostartridin1/ss/How_To_Ride_4.htm
5. ↑ http://motorcycles.about.com/od/howtostartridin1/ss/How_To_Ride_5.htm
6. ↑ http://motorcycles.about.com/od/howtostartridin1/ss/How_To_Ride_6.htm
7. ↑ http://motorcycles.about.com/od/howtostartridin1/ss/How_To_Ride_7.htm
8. ↑ http://motorcycles.about.com/od/howtostartridin1/ss/How_To_Ride_10.htm

How to Shift Gears on a Motorcycle

Shifting Gears on a Manual Transmission Shifting Gears in a Semi-Automatic Transmission

Edited by Joe Kickass, Ben Rubenstein, AnotherMindbomb, Versageek and 16 others

One of the most important processes of riding a motorcycle is shifting gears. This may seem like a challenge to master, but shifting gears is really a simple process.

Method 1 of 2: Shifting Gears on a Manual Transmission

1. 
   1
   Learn the uses of the required controls. To shift gears on a manual transmission motorcycle, you must engage the clutch, throttle the engine, and adjust the gear shifter. The clutch is responsible for transferring torque from the engine to the transmission, throttling the engine prevents it from stalling, and the gear shift is responsible for switching between gears.
   • The clutch is found just behind the left handlebar of the bike, while the gear-shift is a bar on the left foot petal.
   • On the gear shift, pressing down puts the bike in first gear, while the remaining gears can be reached by moving the gear shift upwards.
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2. 
   2
   Turn the bike on. The first step is to make sure you have your motorcycle on, resting in the neutral position. At this point, you should be sitting in the saddle of the bike.^[1]
3. 
   3
   Shift into first gear. Start by closing the throttle, and then pull the clutch in all the way. At the same time, move the gear shift into first gear by pushing downwards on the control. Then, slowly throttle the engine.
4. 
   4
   Upshift into higher gears. To do this, use the same process of shifting into first gear. Close the throttle, pull the clutch, and then move the gear shift upwards followed by throttling the engine.
   • You can continue moving into higher gears by bumping the gear shift upwards more. One bump goes to second, another to third, another to fourth, and so on.
   • If you skip a gear by accident, don’t worry. It won’t damage the bike as long as you make sure to match the throttle to the gear you have shifted to.^[2]
5. 
   5
   Downshift to a lower gear. When you are slowing down or preparing to stop, you can downshift to a lower gear by simply pushing down on the gear shift one notch at a time. Whenever you come to a stop, put the bike in neutral which is the between 1st and 2nd gear on the gear shift.^[3]

EditMethod 2 of 2: Shifting Gears in a Semi-Automatic Transmission

1. 
   1
   Learn the required controls. All that you need to do to shift gears on a motorcycle with a semi-automatic transmission is throttle the engine and use the gear shift. On a semi-automatic, the clutch is tied in to the gear shift, so using the gear shift activates both controls at once.
2. 
   2
   Turn the bike on. Straddle the bike and make sure it is in neutral before proceeding to shift gears.
3. 
   3
   Shift into first gear. This is a very basic process, as all you have to do is throttle the engine and press down one click on the gear shift. First gear is always found by moving the gear shift down a notch, while the remaining gears can be reached by moving the gear shift upwards.
4. 
   4
   Shift into higher gears. To do this, use the same process of shifting into first gear. Throttle the engine and push the gear shift upwards with your toe. Pushing it one click with move it to 2nd gear, giving it another gear will move it to 3rd, and so on.
5. 
   5
   Downshift into lower gears. To slow down and eventually come to a stop, you can downshift into lower gears by pushing down on the gear shift. Always put your bike in neutral when you are stopped.
   
   

  Tips

• Modern bikes rely on the front brake to stop. Using the rear brake at a high speed has very little effect.It helps mainly to stabilize the bike. So when at a very high speed, brake with the front brake gently at first and then progressively harder until you have slowed down to the speed you want and then gently ease off on the brake pressure. Use a little rear brake to stabilize the bike. Brake ratios should be anywhere from 80% front, 20% rear to 100% front, 0% rear depending on how hard you brake and road conditions. The harder the braking the less rear brake you should apply. Because of weight transfer to the front, the rear wheel becomes easier to lock up.

  Warnings

• When shifting up, listen to the engine. If it is making a very low grumble, shift down. If it is whining loudly, shift up.
• When downshifting, only downshift one gear at a time!
• When shifting into neutral from first gear, make sure that you let the clutch out slowly to ensure you really are in neutral. Releasing the clutch quickly, while still in gear, will cause the vehicle to stall (at best) or leap forwards unexpectedly.
• If You don't shift up when the engine hits the rev limiter, your engine could eventually blow
• If your shifts 'clunk' a bit, try playing with your jetting settings to get it just right.

How to Use the Clutch to Drift With a Motorcycle

Edited by Flav, Krystle, Maluniu, Pie_ret and 1 other

SuperMoto drivers use clutch to drift and earn time to going faster on the track. Drifting with clutch permits you to brake later and to position your motorcycle to turn faster.

Steps

1. 
   1
   Roll in a straight line. You must have speed to drift.
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2. 
   2
   Stabilise your speed when your motor is running at an average regime (more than 7000 rpm for a 4 or 3 cylinder, around 6000rpm for a 2 or a single cylinder).
3. 
   3
   Take the clutch.
4. 
   4
   Wait that your motor turn slower.
5. 
   5
   Let the clutch to the clutching point or totally if you have a control engine braking.
6. 
   6
   Now your rear wheel turns slower than the front wheel and it makes your motorbike drift.
7. 
   7
   When both wheels have the same turning speed it will stop to slide.
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  Tips

• Be ready for the bike to turn while it will drift.
• When you let the clutch, you can use the rear brake to control the speed of the rear wheel. The rear wheel must keep spinning.
• To drift more you can use the front brake. It will give less weight on the rear wheel and give it less grip.
• The body position is very important. If you stay straight, the bike should stay in the same position and you could not feel that you are drifting. If your body is on the left side of the bike, the rear will slide on the right. If your body is on the right side of the bike, the rear will slide on the left.
• Hold the tank between your legs. It permits you to guide the bike.
• Practice in a safe area.

  Warnings

• Protect your bike.
• There is a high chance that you will fall down.
• Do not do this on the road
• Wear protective gear.

 

How to Perform Clutch Wheelies on a Motorcycle

Edited by tom vykruta, Dave Crosby, Sondra C, Melodie R and 16 others

Clutch wheelies are better than power/bounce wheelies because you can do them without accelerating (much); in tight areas, at very low speed, and they are much smoother than power wheelies both on the way up and down. You can also ride them out much longer and shift into higher gears.

  Steps

1. 
   1
   You don't need a very powerful bike. You can definitely clutch wheelie a 500 cc sport bike, it just takes higher revs.
   • Stock gearing is fine, however, with this setup it can't clutch up in 2nd. You'll need a 520 kit for that. (To clutch up in second with less bouncing, try going -1 on the front sprocket, and +2 on the rear.
     
   • If you buy these sprockets in 525 pitch, you will be able to change them and use the stock chain).
   • (Edit: The chain length will be correct, but you cannot use a 520 chain on 525 sprockets, or vice versa.)
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2. 
   2
   Sit comfortably, upright on the bike. You don't have to slide back for this trick. "It is possible to pull a wheelie at 70 mph in 3rd gear on a gsxr-600." This will take more practice, but it is very possible.
3. 
   3
   Drive at a steady pace around 1500-2000rpm. (Should be about 10-20mph).
4. 
   4
   When you are ready for liftoff, quickly open up the throttle and accelerate. This is VERY important because it compresses your rear suspension. It's very difficult to clutch a wheelie without compressing rear suspension first. You're not trying to build up speed! Starting at low RPMs is very important. If you start a clutch wheelie at 5000RPM, it will be very difficult and you'll red line long before you go vertical. Power comes from low RPM.
5. 
   5
   Almost immediately after accelerating, pull clutch in enough to disengage and let the engine rev to about 6000RPM. You can do this slow at first, eventually it becomes an instantaneous motion.
6. 
   6
   Quickly release the clutch at about 80%. This is the hardest part. You HAVE to release fast. You'll know you released too fast when your RPM drops down to 2000 - this means you released too fast. Practice, practice, practice. When you get it right it will feel like you have hydraulics on your front wheel and pop right up (much quicker and smoother than a power-bounce wheelie).
7. 
   7
   Once you master this, your bike should be popping up a little bit. The next step is throttle control.
   • While releasing the clutch, add throttle. If you want to go big - vertical - and stay there - the big thing to learn is that you can not let go of the throttle OR the clutch. You will control height of the wheelie with your clutch at this point.
     
8. 
   8
   So once again.. once comfortable with the clutch release motion, start giving it lots of throttle. You should be able to keep it up in 1st gear for a few seconds without any problems. The higher you go the longer you stay up.
9. 
   9
   Once you get good, you won't have to rev before you clutch. Do them at the same time.
10. 
    10
    Finished.
    
    

Tips

• Try using two fingers to pull in the clutch, that way you'd have a better release.
• Releasing clutch too slow or not enough. You have to let it out in one quick motion, just a flick. Think of the clutch as your foot kicking the back tire. If you kick it your foot will bounce off...if you just push your foot into, even with a lot of force, it won't bounce back.
• Your front wheel acts as a gyro to keep your bike straight. Don't hit the front brake! Keep it spinning!
• Practice giving it lots of throttle and more clutch. Just don't loop it!
• 520, 525, 530 chain sizing makes no difference at all. 520 is mostly utilized in racing to reduce mass from the rotating chain.
• If you feel the bike going a little too far back, try tapping the back brake a little instead of chopping the throttle, this will let you keep your rpms up so you don't slam the front end and blow a fork seal.

Warning

• Riders of above-average skill frequently fall (crash) when stunt riding. You don't have to flip the bike to hurt yourself badly. Trust your instincts and don't let others pressure you into wheelies or other stunts.
• It's best to learn wheelies on a small dirt bike. Street bikes are heavier and more powerful; they can hurt you more easily and are a lot more expensive to fix when you fall.
• When practicing wheelies, assume whatever object is, or will be within 500 feet of your direction of travel, you WILL hit. Remember, you have no steering and no front brakes whatsoever when on one wheel. Even when your front wheel comes down, your shocks are compressed, therefore no brakes until they decompress.(Edit:The position of the suspension has no bearing on the operation of the brakes.) (Edit: The front brake will work just fine with the front suspension compressed. The problem is inertia. If you slam on the front brakes the back will start to come up. This effect is increased with the suspension compressed and you wind up in the "endo" stunt position. If you are meaning to do this and can control it, fine. If not, you just wrecked your bike and possibly injured yourself.) This could take 100 feet depending on speed! Make sure the path is clear at all times!!
• Using the clutch to wheelie will eventually destroy your clutch, chain, and sprockets, so make sure to check them for damage before and after each practice session.
• Most insurance companies WILL NOT cover damage done while "riding unsafely", which does include stunting, so be prepared to pay for everything you break.
• Wheelies are REALLY dangerous. Doing them on public roads is irresponsible and can easily cost you your license, or even your life. Proceed with care!

  Things You'll Need

• Helmet, gloves, protective pants and jacket. You probably won't loop your bike but be ready for the worst. Frame sliders are also recommended.
• A special "stunt cage" is available for many bikes. It's an external frame that protects the bike from hitting pavement.
• A special bar can also be installed on the rear. Also known as a 12-bar. This prevents the bike from going beyond vertical.
• Stunt riding should be practiced only on a closed course with proper preparation (gear, insurance, and someone to provide first aid and call paramedics if needed).